Goa, India

After staying up late the night before, I slept in some today, finally waking up after 09:00. I then showered, dressed, ate breakfast in the hotel (a rice dish, cornflakes with milk, bread with jam, and some sort of rice cakes – I think), and then left to see Old Goa, in the daylight, properly this time. I took an auto rickshaw to the Margao bus station (leaving Covah Beach shortly after 10:00) and then took a direct bus to Old Goa. Once I arrived in Old Goa (shortly after 11:00), I walked toward the Se Cathedral. First, I stopped at the Basilica Bom Jesus (in Portuguese, “Bom Jesus” means “Good Jesus”) and entered through the main doors, viewing the altar and artwork gracing its insides. Outside the basilica, there was a mass being conducted with many worshipers in attendance (it was nearing its conclusion), seated on folding chairs and covered from the sun. I then entered in to the long line to enter in to the Se Cathedral in order to view the remains of Saint Francis Xavier (the sixteenth-century Spanish priest who traveled throughout Asia to spread the Gospel – it actually feels like I’ve been on his trail throughout my own travels, from the Philippines (although there is no evidence he ever visited there) to Malacca and now to Goa, his final resting place); the line started out on the road adjacent to the cathedral, wound around the grounds, entered in to a large covered area with ineffective fans and girls handing out water to all the sweaty pilgrims; inside this covered area, the line snaked back and forth, many times, before coming outside again and entering in to the cathedral. It was very hot outside for being in December and people were pushing up against each other (there is no concept of “personal space” in India and many people also have no problem jumping ahead of others in line – is this a cultural thing?); it occurred to me how exhaustively annoying the wait would’ve been if everyone in line had horns to honk (if you’ve been on the roads in India, then you know what I’m talking about). This line was longer than any found in Disneyland and it took nearly three hours before I reached the end; I spent most of my time in line reading ‘The Imitation of Christ’ (very appropriate) and trying to apply the lessons in that book to my current situation . . . but it was hard not to become frustrated and to judge all the annoying and inconsiderate people in line (I know, I know, I have a giant sequoia in my eye, but at least I know I’m trying; most people seem completely selfish and oblivious to others). Anyway, I finally reached his glass casket and I bowed my head in reverence before hurrying on so others could approach the casket; he was still pretty well preserved (one of the miracles associated with Saint Francis Xavier is that his body did not decay at all in the first several months of having died even though he was not embalmed and his intestines were left inside – one of the many factoids I learned about him from the signs hung along the waiting line). The Se Cathedral itself was built in the first quarter of the seventeenth century; the interior of the cathedral is done in a Corinthian-style of architecture and the exterior is Tuscan; unfortunately no photography was allowed inside the cathedral on account of the corpse, but I did taker plenty outside. After exiting the Se Cathedral, I walked around its outside and then entered in to another building to view and exhibition on Indian Christian art, which had some interesting paintings of Jesus Christ, the Virgin Mary, and some saints that showed clear signs of Hindu and Buddhist influences (in one painting Jesus is seated with one hand in lap and the other touching the Earth, similar to art depictions of Buddha in his Bhumisparsha Mudrā posture (calling the earth to be his witness), which represents the moment of Buddha’s enlightenment). After that small exhibition, I entered in to the nearby Saint Francis of Assisi Church (named after the arguably better “Saint Francis”); this church was built in 1661 and has a beautifully well-crafted interior with a number of nice oil paintings depicting the life of Saint Francis of Assisi displayed near the main altar in the nave. After enjoying the interior of that church, I then visited the Chapel of Saint Catherine, which was built in 1510 by Afonso de Albuquerque to commemorate his entry in to the city; this chapel was rather plain and didn’t stack up to the other impressive structures nearby. At this point I was very thirsty, having sweated for hours in line and afterwards with nothing to drink yet today; so I walked to a nearby cafe and had two lemonade drinks and a liter of water. I then took a bus back to Margao bus station; from Margao, I then took an indirect bus back to Covah Beach; after finally reaching the beach, I walked around for a short time, viewed some people paragliding, and was surprised to see almost everyone (crowds of people) fully clothed; I think the only ones in swimsuits were the Russian tourists. I then walked around the town for a short while (there is not much to see) before settling on a place to eat dinner, where I had beer and another pizza with slices of Goa sausage and green peppers (just like last night, but this restaurant didn’t make their pizza as well). After dinner, I retired to my room, relaxed, and then went out to grab some snacks and brews before quickly returning to watch ‘The Counselor’ on television; the film was edited for content (curse words were silenced and the scene where Cameron Diaz humps the car’s windshield like a suckerfish was cut – India doesn’t allow these things on television, but go outside and you’re bound to see someone defecating by the road), but I enjoyed it regardless; I think critics were too quick to dismiss the film since it has a lot of great dialogue and scenes; albeit, it could have added a few more scenes to keep the audience well informed. After the film, I watched some more television before going to sleep.