December 11, 2014

Hospet, India

Gateway to Virupaksha temple in Hampi.
Gateway to Virupaksha temple in Hampi.
Inside Virupaksha temple.
Inside Virupaksha temple.
In Virupaksha temple, looking back at the entrances.
In Virupaksha temple, looking back at the entrances.
Virupaksha temple viewed from Hemakuta Hill.
Virupaksha temple viewed from Hemakuta Hill.
Shrines on Hemakuta Hill.
Shrines on Hemakuta Hill.
A green pond and temples on Hemakuta Hill in Hampi.
A green pond and temples on Hemakuta Hill in Hampi.
Pushkarni (a water tank) next to the Krishna Bazaar in Hampi.
Pushkarni (a water tank) next to the Krishna Bazaar in Hampi.
The entrance to the Krishna temple with monkeys hanging out on the "monkey bars".
The entrance to the Krishna temple with monkeys hanging out on the “monkey bars”.
Inside the Krishna temple complex.
Inside the Krishna temple complex.
The Krishna temple with trunkless elephants flanking each side of a staircase leading up to the main temple.
The Krishna temple with trunkless elephants flanking each side of a staircase leading up to the main temple.
Lakshmi Narasmiha temple with monolithic statue of the fourth incarnation of Vishnu.
Lakshmi Narasmiha temple with monolithic statue of the fourth incarnation of Vishnu.
Creek alongside a banana plantation in Hampi.
Creek alongside a banana plantation in Hampi.
Inside the Chandikeshvar temple.
Inside the Chandikeshvar temple.
Bas-relief of Hanuman.
Bas-relief of Hanuman.

I woke up today after 08:00, got dressed, grabbed my camera, and walked to the Central Bus Station in Hospet; I then took the local bus to the Hampi Bus Stand (it was about a thirty minute ride). Upon arriving at the bus stand, I exited the vehicle and walked to the nearest site of interest in Hampi – the Virupaksha Temple; I paid the entance fee for my camera and I, and then walked around the temple grounds, looking at all the sculpted reliefs and Hindu idols; I also walked behind the temple and to the adjacent Matanga Tank (a large pool with red and white stripes painted on its steps and enclosing walls). After thoroughly touring the temple, I exited the grounds, collected my shoes (it was one of those shoeless temples), and walked up Hemakuta Hill, a large rocky hill with many boulders and stone structures scattered on its granite slope. I walked around the Hemakuta temples and enjoyed the panoramic views of the surrounding banana trees, sugarcane, and coconut trees (I have returned to the tropics), as well as all the other rocky hills and ancient temples one could see from up there. I then walked to the Sasivekalu Ganesha temple and the nearby Vishnu temple; after those quick visits, I walked to the Pushkarni (a tank filled with water and a small stone pavilion in its center) and the Krishna Bazaar; next I visited the Krishna temple across the road. The Krishna temple is built in Panchayatana style with two enclosures, the main shrine with the inner sanctum, a vestibule, pillared pavilions and halls, a Devi shrine, and many sub-shrines; I entered inside the main temple and, with iPhone flashlight in hand, walked through the dark, enclosed corridor that surrounds the inner sanctum; within this pitch black corridor were a few resident bats flying around; I then visited the Inner Santum itself, before exiting the main temple and walking around its outside. I then exited the Krishna temple complex and proceeded walking south-bound. Next I visited the Lakshmi Narasmiha temple, which has a monolithic statue of Lakshmi Narasmiha, the fourth incarnation of Vishnu, inside its walls; adjacent to this temple, is the Badaviling temple, which has a three meters high Shiva Linga inside. I then walked further south past many banana and sugarcane plantations to the Chandikeshvar temple. After visiting that quaint temple, I walked on down the road.

The Queen's Bath in Hampi.
The Queen’s Bath in Hampi.
Inside the Queen's Bath, looking at the empty pool.
Inside the Queen’s Bath, looking at the empty pool.
Sarasvathi temple.
Sarasvathi temple.
Octagonal bath.
Octagonal bath.
Reliefs of animals and riders decorating the walls of Mahanavami Dibba.
Reliefs of animals and riders decorating the walls of Mahanavami Dibba.
Relief in Mahanavami Dibba.
Relief in Mahanavami Dibba.
Corner view of Rushkarani.
Corner view of Rushkarani.
Side view of Rushkarani.
Side view of Rushkarani.
Inside the Hazararama temple.
Inside the Hazararama temple.
Bas-relief of an elephant.
Bas-relief of an elephant.
Backside of the main temple in the Hazararama temple complex.
Backside of the main temple in the Hazararama temple complex.
Four riders on an elephant.
Four riders on an elephant.
Watchtower inside the Zanana Enclosure.
Watchtower inside the Zanana Enclosure.
The beautiful Lotus Mahal.
The beautiful Lotus Mahal.
A temple outside the Zanana Enclosure.
A temple outside the Zanana Enclosure.
The Elephant Stables.
The Elephant Stables.
Angle view of the Elephant Stables.
Angle view of the Elephant Stables.
Inside the Elephant Stables, looking through the openings between each stable.
Inside the Elephant Stables, looking through the openings between each stable.
Hanuman sculpture inside the Ranga temple.
Hanuman sculpture inside the Ranga temple.
Band tower inside Danaik's Enclosure.
Band tower inside Danaik’s Enclosure.
The wall for Danaik's Enclosure.
The wall for Danaik’s Enclosure.
Inside Prasanna Virupaksha temple (also known as the Underground Shiva temple).
Inside Prasanna Virupaksha temple (also known as the Underground Shiva temple).
Prasanna Virupaksha temple from the outside.
Prasanna Virupaksha temple from the outside.
Water tank in Hampi.
Water tank in Hampi.
Shrine structure surrounded by a banana plantation in Hampi.
Shrine structure surrounded by a banana plantation in Hampi.
Monkey hanging out on some ruins in Hampi.
Monkey hanging out on some ruins in Hampi.
Relief on the side of a giant boulder.
Relief on the side of a giant boulder.
Herd of goats passing through ruins in Hampi.
Herd of goats passing through ruins in Hampi.
Giant monolithic sculpture of Ganesha (carved out of a boulder) in the Kadalekalu Ganesha temple.
Giant monolithic sculpture of Ganesha (carved out of a boulder) in the Kadalekalu Ganesha temple.

After a kilometer or so, I reached the Royal Center of Hampi; I continued on the road until I reached the Queen’s Bath, located southeast of the Royal Enclosure; the Queen’s Bath is an example of the Indo-Islamic style of Vijayanagara architecture and in the center of the structure is more of  swimming pool than a bath; also, near to the bath is the Chandrashekara temple; the queen would bathe and purify herself before going to this temple. After visiting the bath house and the temple, I walked around the surrounding area, through dirt trails and thorned-bushes with many stickers, to see the Sarasvathi temple and the Octagonal bath. I then went off the beaten path, tried to find my way to the road, but couldn’t, scared a rabbit, and finally returned the way I came, continuing on the dirt road past the Queen’s Bath to the Royal Enclosure (remnants of the stone wall enclosing this space still stands). I entered inside the Royal Enclosure (the nucleus of the ancient capital city of Vijayanagara) and walked up to the top of the Mahanavami Dibba (a three-tier, pyramidal stone platform used for ceremonies and festivals by the royal family – it also had many nice reliefs decorating its stone blocks); then I walked to the Rushkarani (a cool looking, geometric stepped tank with an aqueduct built to drain in to it), the near by public bath (an olympic-sized bath . . .), the guards barracks (all that remains are the stone bases), the underground chamber, and the King’s Audience Hall or what remained of it. During this time, the dark clouds above spilt some rain from time to time, mostly just sprinkles and not lasting too long, but enough to get me a little wet. I then walked to the Hazararama temple (the only temple situated in the core zone of the Royal Enclosure, between the residential and ceremonial enclosures), which is dedicated to Vishnu in his aspect as Lord Rama and is a fine example of a compact Dravida Vimana type of temple. After exiting the temple, I walked to the remains of a nearby bazaar and a water tank before walking to the Zanana Enclosure; inside this enclosure is a water pavilion, several watchtowers, and the Lotus Mahal (a stylish two-storeyed building); just outside the Zanana Enclosure are the Elephant Stables (which has eleven large domed chambers, interconnected, to keep the large pachyderms), the guards’ quarters (now a small museum displaying several sculptures), the Ranga temple, and several Jain temples. I then walked to the Tennali Rama’s pavilion before walking to Danaik’s Enclosure (located west of the Royal Enclosure), which has the Palace of Vira Harihara, a mosque, a band tower, the remnants of the Palace of Krishna Devaraya, and a Mohammadan watchtower (on the northwest corner). The last site I visited in the Royal Center was the Prasanna Virupaksha temple (also known as the Underground Shiva temple). I then walked back to the Hampi Bus Stand, back the way I came, passing by some more ancient structures (another water tank and some more unidentified shrines and temples). Near the bus stand, I visited the Kadalekalu Ganesha, a monolithic sculpture carved out of a large granite boulder, that stands 4.5 meters tall. I then returned to the bus stand, took the local bus back to Hospet and returned to my hotel room around 17:00. I then relaxed inside, typed out journal entries, ate dinner (Aloo Gobi masala, Kaju masala, Ghee rice, Kadai paneer, and a 7-Up), watched the movie ‘Pain & Gain’ (this may be the only Michael Bay film I actually like, it was an enjoyable and funny film), and stayed up very late. I then went to sleep.

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